Finger Tuning
View from behind the string

There are excellent articles on tuning bows but most relate to tuning for release shooters. On rare occasions, some archery books have sections that relates to finger-shooting set up. 

While I have tried several methods of tuning, the following is the easiest that I have found. Remember, there are many factors that one must consider during tuning maintenance including; arrow spine and length, point weight, bow length, hand placement and release form.  The information supplied in this method should be applied to compound bows only. 

Most bows today are cut past center, which makes life a little easier.  You will need: your bow, an arrow rest (with side pressure and vertical movement features, Golden Key center gauge, hex wrenches and an arrow or two.  

Ask your local archery shop for a good finger-shooting arrow rest — Golden Key makes several including the Huntmaster 2000.  New Archery Products (NAP) center plunger rest, Tiger Tough Deluxe star and the Cavalier Free Flight are also good choices.  

Install your arrow rest of choice per manufacturer’s instructions. A few things to watch for: make sure the arrow, when placed on the rest covers the plunger hole and/or the plunger/side pressure plate goes between the fletching as the arrow passes through.  Next, install a peep in the string, no need to tie it in yet.  

Use the GK center shot gauge to adjust the rest for center shot. Place the arrow in the rest and using the gauge you can see if the front-end of the arrow is lined up left or right of the arrow sitting on the string.  If not, you can move the plunger or the whole arrow rest until the tip of the arrow is lined up perfectly with the string. 

Now you can look at the bow, from the back, and see if the string bisects the arrow from back to front.  Doing so, the peep should be over the center of the arrow about half way down the shaft.  If not, adjust side-tension or move the rest accordingly.  Depending on finger pressure while shooting or the placement of your hand on the grip this might change, but it is a good starting point. Usually the string is located on the centerline of the grip, which is located on the centerline of the bow. 

Loosely, tie-in the peep sight, you may have to change position later. Time to shoot! 

Have someone stand behind you as you fire off a few rounds.  Do not watch the arrow, have your friend do that.  During the test shots, if they see the arrow fishtailing then adjust the rest or plunger (depending on arrow rest type) until the arrows fly straight.  You may have to shoot at a target several yards down range to notice unwanted arrow movement.  

If you are using a plunger style rest, do not move the rest! By increasing or decreasing the plunger tension you can get your arrow to fly straight assuming you have correctly set the center-shot. You can also look at the relationship between front and back end of the arrow while stuck in the target, in relation to where you were standing. This will indicate how the arrow is flying.  

When you are close to having a straight flying arrow you can sometimes micro-adjust the flight by turning your limb bolts by half-turn increments either way until you reach the optimum arrow flight. 

The weakest link in this is you. There is no question that a mechanical release will make you a better shooter. But what if it is broken or lost?  What do you do now? If you constantly practice with fingers you can be deadly accurate.  Becoming familiar with your equipment will make you a more consistent shooter under bow hunting conditions. 

Finger shooting is alive and well.  Fred Bear did it, Howard Hill did it, Robin Hood did it and Ben Pearson did it.  Byron Ferguson shoots arrows through wedding bands at 50 yards, using fingers.