by Jeff G. Phillips
FastestBows.com

When in doubt, pull it out — a paper tuner that is.

This article is limited to arrow flight affect by bow draw weight, arrow spine, and nock position.  If your bow is out of time or your arrow rest is badly out of position, this article WILL NOT help you.  

Also, if shooting to high of draw weight for you to handle, this article will not help you.  Back your bow poundage to a comfortable weight and proceed.  Granted at times it is difficult for new archers to detect bad arrow flight affected by other bow mechanical problems.  

Two methods that are commonly used to correct arrow flight, "Bare Shaft Shooting" and "Paper Tuning."  Both are effective, but paper tuning  is probably more precise.  This article will only address paper tuning since most archers do not have access to bare shafts and who wants to cut off the fletching of perfectly good arrows when you can paper tune a bow with the fletching attached?  Paper tuning works for both release shooters and finger shooters.

Before proceeding, make sure that you have adjusted the center-shot for a good straight thru arrow flight and that you adjusted your arrow nocks for proper fletching clearance over the arrow rest.

Materials needed: several sheets of regular notebook paper (8.5" X 11"), and 8" X 10" picture frame, tape and some sort of arrow-stop such as a practice target.

Install a single sheet of paper into the picture frame with some tape.  Do not  install the picture frame's backing or the glass front.  You will need a way to set up the frame at shoulder height.  After the frame set up, position your arrow stop of choice at the same height behind the frame.  You will need to set the target far enough behind the frame in order to allow the arrow to completely pass thru the paper.  Three to five feet will do.

You are ready to shoot!   Be sure to use the same shooting form that you normally use while practicing.  Do not trust your sights to shoot thru the paper, have a friend help you line up.  Stand about five feet from the paper frame and fire away.

After you have shot the first arrow, observe the paper.  The cuts or tears in the paper are the answers to your problems.  You will need to be able to detect arrow tip entry and arrow nock/fletching exit points.  The arrow tip entry will usually be a very fine tear or cut followed by a tear made by the arrow shaft.  The length of the arrow shaft tear will be defined by how badly your bow is out of tune.  The arrow tip and arrow shaft tear is usually a single tear.  The nock/fletching exit point is detected by multiple tears in the shape of a "Y" extending from the arrow shaft tear.

If you do not detect any long paper tears, usually no longer than three quarters of an inch (3/4), you have proper arrow flight.  Stop now while you are ahead!  If you have longer cuts or tears, proceed.

Use the interactive image below to give you suggestions on how to correct the problem.  

bulletThe red center represents the arrow tip entry point. 
bulletThe lines represent arrow shaft tears. 
bulletThe gray area represents nock/fletching tears (arrow exit).

Move your mouse around on the gray area of the image.  The context notes will tell you which section (1-4) to read and take note.  If you have a combination of problems, correct the up and down (#1 & #2 - porpoising) first!

#1 High Tear - Several possibilities: High nock position, arrow rest clearance, or timing problems.  

bullet

Move nock down in 1/32" (small) increments.

bullet

Check arrow clearance. 

If the above suggestions do not help, you may have timing problems.  Check your tiller lengths and/or consult an archery pro shop.
  
#2 Low Tear - Low nock position.  Move the nock up in 1/32" (very small) increments until the tear to the bottom is eliminated.
 
Note:  Use a bow square to help you move your nock point.  This becomes an important tool when moving the nock in very small increments.
 
#3 Right Tear - This is not usually seen with release shooters.  However if it does occur with a release shooter, the arrow rest is probably adjusted too far to the right, you may be applying torque to the bow's grip, or there are clearance problems with the arrow rest.  If that doesn't work try using a weaker arrow shaft or increase bow draw weight. 

Left-handed finger shooters:
bulletThe arrow spine is too weak
bulletDecrease bow draw weight.
bulletUse arrow with more spine.
bulletUser lighter arrow tip/point.
bulletCheck arrow rest clearance.

Right-handed finger shooters:
bulletThe arrow spine is too stiff.
bulletIncrease bow draw weight.
bulletUse arrow with less spine.
bulletUse heavier arrow tip/point.
bulletCheck arrow rest clearance.
 

#4 Left Tear - Release shooters:  Arrow spine too weak (decrease bow draw weight) or arrow rest clearance problems.  Move the arrow rest towards the riser.  Make sure that you are not applying torque to the bow's grip.  

Left-handed finger shooters:

bulletThe arrow spine is too stiff.
bulletIncrease bow draw weight.
bulletUse arrow with less spine.
bulletUse heavier arrow tip/point.
bulletCheck arrow rest clearance.

Right-handed finger shooters:

bulletThe arrow spine is too stiff.
bulletIncrease bow draw weight.
bulletUse arrow with less spine.
bulletUse heavier arrow tip/point.
bulletCheck arrow rest clearance.

 

NOTE:  Use a center-shot gauge to help you move your arrow rest if needed.  The gauge is mainly used to align your arrow rest for center-shot, but it can also be used to make very small adjustments.  Sometimes it is difficult to tell how far you have moved your arrow rest.
NOTE 2:  DO NOT use this type of center-shot gauge on a single cam bow.  Use a gauge that attaches to the limb bolts.

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1. BowTech BK2
2. Mathews Black Max2 Turbo
3. BowTech Pro40 Dually
4. BowTech Patriot Dually
5. BowTech Extreme VFT

Complete List
 

 

Turbo Nocks replace an arrow's fletching and nock with a one-piece solution. And, they can be shot through a Whisker Biscuit.
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